Showing posts with label Lawrence Landscape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lawrence Landscape. Show all posts

Friday, October 14, 2011

Bulbs....

Bulbs!!

Why Bulbs?
Lots of bang for your buck- or lots of return for not much initial investment. They are fairly cheap- the more expensive bulbs can run you $12 for three. Commonly you can buy 50 bulbs for $30! You plant in the fall, when the weather begins to cool AND the ground is cool. And they return every year, in the spring when most other garden flowers are still asleep. Bulbs are unfussy (when you choose hardy ones)!
How do I make them look, uh, good/ right or natural? 
Naturalize! In gardening, naturalizing often refers to an informal-looking, unplanned plantings of bulbs. Naturalized areas will flourish when planted with self-propagating and spreading bulb species (like crocus, daffodil, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, Glory-of-the-Snow, squill)- choose varieties that will spread freely in fields, meadows, lawns, and along wooded paths. Choose varieties that require little to no care after planting time! YES. (Not tulips, folks.)
Plant under established trees to achieve an effortless “meadow” look! In time, these plantings will redesign themselves, rearranging themselves into a natural, native pattern with nearly no effort on the gardener’s part!
Plant large quantities- not just three or four, think 10 or 25.
Choose varieties that will make you happy (obviously) but keep in mind bloom time- think early, middle, late and make sure you plant varieties that bloom in each period. I simply let the package description guide me- approximate size, early-middle-late bloom time and color. (Also- choose varieties that
How do I actually plant them??
One- get a bulb planting tool. This makes planting en masse much easier. Lots of people use regular hand trowel/ spades. Not me! I have my handy dandy old-lady cone shaped, tin can planter!
Two- out line your planting area (I use marking paint, lots of people use hoses). Choose areas that are not boggy and are not in deep, evergreen shade. Early spring tree shade (from deciduous trees) is usually pretty light- trees will not have leaved out yet. Make a natural, rounded shape- I always design beds with soft serpentine curves to mimic natural shapes and also make mowing and edging easier. Keep shapes minimal (not too many curves here).
Three- scatter bulbs (a mixture of sizes, varieties and bloom times) around areas. Adjust your spacing to reflect the size of the bloom. Check out the chart and make sure the bulbs are spaced far enough away from each other! Largest bulb/ blooms will be your focus, so plant those first and put all the other small bulbs around them. Put a few outside your planting area to make it seem really informal!
Four- kneepads and digging tool time! Make sure you pay attention to the size of the bulb. This tells you (as does the packaging) how deep to plant the bulb. 3 times the height of the bulb- rule of thumb. (little bitty 1” grape hyacinths are planted 3” below the surface) Leaves holes open, as you will be adding fertilizer and compost on top. Choose Bulb Fertilizer or high phosphorus fertilizer as it won’t leach into soil and is available to the bulb roots. Always plant bulbs with the tip up! This is where the stem comes from; don’t injure it when you are putting your soil back on top.
I like Bulb Tone- a natural fertilizer (not synthetic) that has some bone meal and blood meal BUT includes alfalfa meal and seaweed. Seems to help enrich the clay soil….

My choices for cool naturalizing bulbs:

Chionodoxa

Drumstick Allium

Fritillaria

Galanthus 

 

Daffodil, Narcissus, Jonquil

Grape Hyacinth

















But I love Tulips? What to do? They keeps petering out….

Tulips take more work in Kansas… we have tough clay soil. It is rich with nutrients but it’s all bound up in the clay! So to get a successful tulip stand started you just have to turn over and amend the entire bed. Mark it out, turn it over (tilling usually) then work in great compost. This needs to be the rich stuff- it can include manure but Choice Compost, Cotton Burr work best. They include alfalfa meal, hay meal and the like. I don’t usually use peat moss but you can… this adds more acid, at least temporarily, to the soil. 



 In other news:

October 15, 2011 Tree Farm Grand Opening/ Field Day

Kid friendly, family time: pumpkin painting, trebuchet. Lunch in our kitchen!

50% off all container stock, in stock cash/carry, no warranty.
25% off crabapples and pear trees. Limited stock of red maples!
8 a.m.- 5 p.m.


Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Blog by Laurel- Summer lovin' plants!

This 100 degree weather can make it hard to enjoy your garden or outdoor landscaping. However, I wanted to give you some inspiration- there are plants out there that flourish in the heat! This heat wave will pass and soon, we'll be back to sitting on our porch or patio, enjoying the view....
Here are some great summer blooming plants. While I don't suggest you create your landscape around these blooming beauties, I do love to include some in the landscapes I design. They add softness, color, texture and just all around summer splendor!
Daylilies- who doesn't love these? They are teflon- easy to grow in shade, hard to kill, rabbits won't eat them (much), they bloom in the dead of summer and keep blooming. Oh, and they aren't susceptible to pests! How great is that? They range in size from tiny to over 3' tall. The colors??? Just look:


 I love this creamy color! 

Next great heat-loving summer lover- the Hydrangea. Now, you may not think of hydrangea as a heat lover. But it only blooms in summer, won't put on blooms until it gets warm (cool summers postpone its bloom development) and blooms it's heart out all summer. Granted, they require SHADE. Different hydrangeas require different amounts but it's always safe to provide morning sun and afternoon shade. Most do very well with enriched soil (r.e. lots of compost, every year, forever) and adequate, regular deep watering.
Hydrangeas are also a fairly good structural element in your landscape design. They are deciduous (in winter they become a pile of sticks), so they won't be green all year. But they can be large and form a hedge of sorts! Choose Hydragea paniculata (Pinky Winky, Pee Gee, etc.), Hyd. tardiva, Hyd. quercifolia (Oakleaf), Hydrangea arborescens (Limelight, Annabelle, etc)- all of these are the bigger specimens. The Endless Summer are the old fashioned beauties that turn blue/ pink depending on soil acidity. They stay small.


These are both the Limelight Hydrangea- 6'+ H and gorgeous lime green to white blooms.









Next post will have a few more wonderful summer plants: Roses and ornamental grasses!

Thursday, June 9, 2011

It's pool season... if you haven't noticed!

In reference to the last post, this is our team spraying concrete into a pool form. It is a Raintree Montessori school, here in Lawrence KS. If you have questions, feel free to visit the Midwest Custom Pool site. Or call Lawrence Landscape- we'll get you pointed in the right direction!